Vionnet cleverly amalgamated a still lingering desire for femininity with the wish to dress without the restricting comfort of corsetry. ... But it was the androgyny promoted by Chanel that dominated women's fashion in Europe in 1919. The idea that Chanel suddenly brought out a less curvaceous figure in 1919 has already been dealt with, … Continue reading The Myth of Chanel and the 1920s: VI – Femininity and Androgyny
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Galerie des Modes, 48e Cahier, 3e Figure
The prudish Mélite, only seeming occupied with what must interest her heart the most, seeks to fix her regards in taking the air at the Palais Royal after dinner: she is dressed in a new déshabillé in the fashion of the Ladies of quality and coiffed with a hat à la Charlotte. (1785) Palais Royal. … Continue reading Galerie des Modes, 48e Cahier, 3e Figure
Galerie des Modes, 48e Cahier, 2e Figure
The young Sophie showing to her favorite the rendez-vous of the pleasures at the Théâtre des Variétés amusants: to enjoy this brilliant Spectacle: she is dressed in a juste à la Suzanne from Figaro, striped petticoat, muslin apron and coiffed with a hat à la Defrozier. (1785) The Théâtre des Variétés amusants was founded by … Continue reading Galerie des Modes, 48e Cahier, 2e Figure
Galerie des Modes, 47e Cahier, 6e Figure
This English Beauty chilled by the poverty that she meets in Paris, but throwing a proud air, an indifferent regard over the beauties she sees in droves at the Palais Royal, walks with a tone of majesty dressed in a large winter pelisse made of satin trimmed with sable with a long gown with double … Continue reading Galerie des Modes, 47e Cahier, 6e Figure
Galerie des Modes, 47e Cahier, 5e Figure
Woman of quality, recently up from her bed,* walking at noon to take the air: the first fruit of a happy marriage makes all her occupation, and augurs a lasting happiness: she is in a large satin pelisse lined and trimmed with sable in two rows, her head is enveloped in a Thérèse of plain … Continue reading Galerie des Modes, 47e Cahier, 5e Figure