Mimic of Modes

When everyone is disposed to go to balls, when nearly all the Ladies consult on the outfit that they should wear there, it is rather important that we speak, to dispel all embarrassment and remove all difficulty. We are in the position of counselor, now that we have seen the ball dresses in a number of assemblies where there was dancing and where there is very often dancing again. There is no richness which relieves these outfits; their prices do not derive from an immense volume of stuff; no; it’s the taste, it’s the perfect shades, it’s the clever combination of colors which alone enhances them. Little fabric is needed to make them. The price they cost is not great. It seems that, because each woman fears appearing twice successively at the same assembly, with the same dress, each agrees to make the least expense for each ball that they can, with all the proprieties kept, however. These outfits for the Ladies are only simple caracos, simple justes, or little jackets, and petticoats. Many, it is true, wear robes à l’Anglaise or à la Turque, especially for the first time that they go to the bals particuliers;* but the greater number wear a juste, a caraco, or a little jacket, with long petticoats.

In thinking that we have given roughly this type of dress for balls, last year, we are tempted to ask ourselves this question: Why, when it’s the nature of Fashion to vary infinitely in very little time, this or that fashion remains fixed and invariable for a long span of time? We believe we can say that this stability is due to usefulness joined to perfect agreeableness. In a ball dress such as the one shown today, utility is found, this dress being short enough not to be torn by a dancer, which, multiplying their leaps and bounds, could easily happen if it were longer, and removes it a little from the barbs of the shoe buckles. The agreeableness is also found in the colors being as well shaded as they are combined.

We will agree that agreeableness is especially found in this outfit. At balls, all are destined to meet to dance; however each chooses the person they like best: and one knows they each take the most dazzling! It is thus useful for the dress to be agreeable.

It will be, if you copy the one worn by the Woman shown in the FIRST PLATE. This dress is a violet satin caraco, with cuffs and collar of pink satin, and a petticoat also of pink satin, trimmed with white gauze. This is the whole dress.

Keep from wearing this caraco over too-tight stays. Fear the fate of this young and beautiful unfortunate of the city of Pest in Hungary, who, last year, on the day of her wedding, fell fainting in the dance, and died on the field because, as the Doctors reported, she was to tightly laced in her stays. Her vessels, which were swollen and which were found to be compressed, had kept the blood from circulating and choked her.

You can wear this dress over a simple corset, tied with cords, or over loosely fastened stays.

You see the form of the presented caraco. It is well united. Nothing loads it, nothing crushes it. To the contrary; the cuffs, the collar, the pink ribbons that tie the caraco, the trimming of blonde lace or gauze placed on the fronts; all serves to add detail to it, all renders it agreeable.

This form returns enough in these caracos à la Turque that are beginning to be worn, and which differ from each other only in that the basques are more thrown to the front, in that a sultane (a type of waistcoat) is worn underneath instead of a stomacher, and in that they are fastened with large buttons instead of with ribbons.

The Woman who wears the caraco shown in this Plate is coiffed with a very big assembled cap with a base of white gauze with little designs and with lappets of rich lace. The ribbon which trims the cap is a pink satin ribbon.

Her hair is frizzed over the head in little separate curls. Two large curls hang on the chest on either side. Behind, her hair is tied very low in a large and thick cadogan, with a reversed curl.

On the neck is a fichu-chemise with three collars, very puffy, fastened with a pin with a large head, shown with a large gold figure.

In her ears, gold earrings à la Plaquette.

On her feet, violet satin shoes, flounced with white satin ribbon.

On her hands, white leather gloves.

On each side, a watch with a gold chain, loaded with trinkets.

We can well imagine, without needing to say it, that not all women wear a caraco and petticoat of the same colors as the caraco and petticoat we have represented. That would throw a slightly monotone uniformity into the assemblies. Some wear caracos of pink satin, or justes of pink satin, or little jackets of pink satin, or Turkish caracos of pink satin, with collar,s cuffs, and petticoats of white satin, trimmed with white gauze or untrimmed. Others wear caracos or justes or little jackets of violet satin, with collars, cuffs, and petticoats of apple green satin. Others wear justes, caracos, etc. of black silk velvet, with collars, cuffs, and petticoats of cerise satin. These latters are the most expensive and most rare. Others wear justes, caracos, etc. of white satin, with collars, cuffs, and petticoats of cerise satin. Still others … but this enumeration would never end: and we have said enough to prove that the caraco and sleeves together are one color, and the collar, cuffs, and petticoat are another. We forgot to say the the shoes are always of the color of the caraco, juste, or little jacket.

Note that under the juste, only a stomacher of the same fabric is worn, as under the caraco, and that under the little jacket and the Turkish caraco little waistcoats are worn.

With the Turkish caraco and little jacket, large caps are not worn, as they are with the caracos and French justes, caps à l’Espagnole, or rich caps à la Randan,** or caps similar to those we will show in the following plate.

* bals particuliers – public or private balls, masked or crossdressing, often held during Carnaval and mid-Lent

** caps à la Randon – see more here

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